Take the Fort! is # 10 on my list of Top 10 “Road Less Traveled” things to do in Rio because Forte Tamandaré, found on a tiny island at the mouth of Guanabara Bay is the most obscure and interesting location that I know of in the wonderful city of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

image

Forte Tamandaré on ilha da Laje (Slab Island) (Photo courtesy of Google)

If you venture out of Guanabara bay on a boat you are sure to notice a strange island about the size of half of a city block. On the island, perched in perfect position to defend the city of Rio against outside attack is an abandoned Fort from the late 1600’s. Out of all of the places I have visited, this island is one of the most magical locations I have set foot upon.

Translating to “Slab, or Stone island,” The land was used as a Military lookout until 1997 when it was abandoned.

Now the island is virtually forgotten and after asking many Cariocas (people native to Rio) about the fort it became clear to me that very few (only the fishermen knew out of all the people I asked) seem to know it exists. We discovered it when we took one of the painted boats from the FlutuArte project out to sea for a Churrasco (Brazilian BBQ). We asked our boat captain what was up with the unique looking island and he told us that it was an old jail. I was so intrigued. “An abandoned jail?! Can we go there?!” I asked him. “Yeah! Let’s go there!” said Perola  (who I had just met that day and is now my creative partner in The 13 Portals Project) without hesitation. Roberto, the captain agreed to take us and pulled the boat up under the strange old bridge that jutted out from the fort. Like an adept little monkey Perola  jumped onto the roof of the boat and climbed quickly up the rope ladder which was dangling precariously in the wind. 

image

“What the heck is that?” The discovery of Forte Tamandaré

image

Climbing up the rope ladder on the crumbling bridge of Forte Tamandaré

image

The entrance to the fort

Go at your own risk. This place is worth it if you are up for a little adventure. You will have to get a boat, which is simple, just contact Joao Silva (021- 96215211) or one of the other fishermen at Quadrado da Urca in Rio. Joao offers boat tours and will be happy to take you for a little cash.  It’s only twenty minutes out from the Quadrado (home to FlutuArte). You will have to climb a rope ladder that dangles precariously in the wind, and you will have to venture upon land that, though abandoned, is still technically Military property. There is some risk involved, but I’ve been twice before and we never had an issue visiting the island. We were there for hours. Once you are on the island you have the whole fort to investigate. Bring a flashlight. There are virtually no windows. Disappear down long dark hallways, explore the untold stories in empty jail cells, discover the TNT room, many nooks, crannies, and other surprises as well as a giant rusty metal staircase that towers up the center chamber leading you to the gun machinery and out to the top of the fort through the holes around the cannons. On top of the island you will find breathtaking panoramic views of the Guanabara Bay, the mountains, the city of Rio and Niteroi across the water.

image

Looking out through the tunnel around one of the cannons from inside the machine room

image
image

The best way to leave the island in my opinion is via bridge jump. Hold hands with your friends, hold your breath and plunge into the cool waters of Guanabara Bay.

Rio is a magical place.

image

And the list is complete. My compilation of outsider, “Road Less Traveled” Things to do in Rio is inspired by my uncle, Rick Steves, a globe trotter, writer, TV personality and activist who has encouraged masses of travelers all over the world to get outside of “the box” of tourist norms and experience life, culture and community in a deeper way. Since I was a child I observed him paving his own way, fueled by passion and entrepreneurship and now, as an adult I find myself even more inspired by his work, writing and life. I am ever grateful to him for being a stellar example of someone who “follows their bliss” and for encouraging me to document my adventures and projects.

image

Ever-curious Rick back in his early days travel

image

Rick Steves (Photo courtesy of Curator magazine)

Check out Rick’s travel blog and Facebook posts which offer his unique perspective on a wide range of topics from travel tips to politics. I will be keeping a close eye on it this spring when he ventures off the beaten path to Egypt to learn more about the culture, enjoy the gorgeous landscape and connect with the Arab Spring.

Up next, a closer look at the 13 Portals project…

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *