We leave Napoli and set off for Tuscany to visit Niki de St Phalle’s Tarot Garden, a magical place I’ve wanted to visit for years~
Destination point, Niki de St. Phalle’s Tarot Garden
It is night, Tuscany is about 5 hours away. We will drive 1/3 of the distance and then stay the night in a small cottage in a tiny town called Pescopennataro.
The little car chugs its way up a giant mountain, weaving its way back and forth along steep dangerous curves on a narrow two way street. The coins on the dash keep a rhythm sliding from side to side as we move through the nebulous fog. My ears pop as we climb higher and higher into the Imperial wood. At the peak of the mountain we discover a small dwelling built into the side of the cliff just off to the side of a tiny, fossilized church. The situation is more than eerie, the woods feel like they are straight out of Blair Witch, the threatening rocks tower over us, but the open door of the house beckons us in to explore.
I flip on my headlamp and we climb inside. The air is dense and frigid. I keep a sharp eye out for wolves or witches or questionable sleeping people. The place is empty. I shudder and take a few photos as I walk into the second room. Whatever hermit lived here knew how to rough it. There was a ledge where he must have slept, a stone fireplace and tiny square window. Some of the walls were smeared with graffiti. There is something about abandoned places in foreign countries that make them even creepier than something from home.
Chilled to the bone and less brave than usual I can’t wait to get out of there. With a shiver I hop back into the safety and comfort of the warm car and we continue down the other side of the mountain.
After a couple hours on the road we approach the sleepy town of Pescopennataro. We enter the cottage which is just as freezing as the outside air. Shaking hands work to make a fire and soon the flames are large and pleasing. We drizzle olive oil on fresh bread with cheese and oregano and put it over the fire to toast. We play Scopa (Broom), a Napolitan card game and drink homemade wine bought from the local wine shop around the corner.
Pescopennataro, population 300 in summer, 50 in the winter
In the morning we wander out to explore the town. It is completely desolate. Many of the homes are abandoned and what was once an elementary school is now an old folks home. No one is moving here. We walk up to the old ruins of the town which I am told are from the 1600’s. The paths are cobblestoned and overgrown with moss. Up a steep hill is an impressive lookout which, when sunny must open up to a spectacular view. But now the green fields and mountains are just barely visible through the heavy morning fog.
The old ruins of Pescopennataro
Next stop, the local cemetery, which houses more people than the town. I love to visit cemeteries. They make me feel even more alive. I also like to see how different cultures treat the deceased.
The gate is embellished with skulls. Inside, the graves are decorated with lots of colorful plastic flowers and there are photos of each person on their grave. I walk around on a bed of dead pine needles in silent contemplation We leave the cemetery and I catch the sunny song of a spirited bird. A smile warms my face.
Onward to the Tarot Garden!