Varanasi is magnificent. I wanted to experience “the holy city” in its state of waking up and so, being more of a night owl than a morning person, I stayed awake all night so that I could witness the happenings on the Ganges at sunrise. At 5:30 am I was delightfully surprised by the echoing sound of a call for prayer over a loudspeaker. I had never noticed it before, always being asleep for it.

Running on excitement, I wandered out into the winding labyrinth-ical streets of the ancient city and encountered robust, sensory overload. I have cataloged the sensations here for you. 

SIGHT: Vibrant colors of bindis, saris and hanging flowers, the early morning action on the great ghats (stairs along the water) ie: bathing, meditating, washing laundry, playing cricket, (I hit some balls) rowing boats. And the venerable Ganges River itself, sparking in the sun.

The sights, my god the sights

SMELL: A smorgasbord of smells! From boiling milk, rancid garbage, the delicious scent of steaming curry, to masala spices, burning wood, (and bodies, I should add… one of the activities along the ganges is cremation) multitudes of perfumes, oils and tonics, which I encountered in an Ayurveda den, and cow pies… numerous cow pies.

Lots of cows make lots of pies

SOUND: A myriad of honking motorcycle horns, prayer bells, chanting in the streets, dogs barking, looms whirring, and the calls from endless touts, “Hello Friend! Yes! Where are you from?” 

Inside a room of looms

TOUCH: The texture of a thousand years decay on ancient temple carvings, the sweaty skin of a hundred strangers cramming through the narrow streets waiting for their turn to go inside the exalted Golden Temple, the unwelcome squeeze of my butt in the crowd.

Detail of an ancient temple overlooking the Ganges

TASTE: Masala chai, sweet, fresh mango lassies, pineapple-mint juices, pani puri my new favorite food which consists of crisp spheres, cracked open on top, stuffed with potato, onion, chickpeas, tamarind chutney and cilantro. They are so fun to eat; you put the whole crisp in your mouth and crack them open like a tasty little egg.

(NOTE: Ask for them without the “pani” (water) part, unless you’re from India or yer apt to experience a whole other series of unwanted sensations).

Pani Puri, get some.

Varanasi possesses special qualities that activate all my senses, bringing me to the present moment, making me aware of the wonder that is around me. In sanskrit, there is a term called Māyā, which connotes “an illusion where things appear to be present but are not what they seem.” The great illusion of reality. 

Oh Varanasi… My eyes, my nose, my skin, my tongue, my ears… 

How they love your magic show!