There are many sides to Carnival in Rio de Janeiro.
Perola, born in Rio, is totally over it and many Cariocas (people from Rio) get out of the city for this crazy week. Carnival has become so huge that the entire city turns into a party and otherwise completely shuts down.
A massive bloco in Copacabana
But despite Carnival, Perola and I are determined to keep our timeline and finish one Portal of the 13 Portals project a week, so we bike or drive daily to the studio through the masses of partiers. We weave through mobs of loud, happy, drunk people in the afternoon and practically dive through the door of the studio. Sanctuary! Bumping sound systems rattle our window as we paint, crowds form on the streets below and when we leave at night to go home we walk on tip toes, avoiding puddles of piss, beer and piles of garbage which line the streets post-party. A permeating blend of the worst smells of life is utterly inescapable and we flee to unlock our bicycles. Other nights we arrive to Perola’s street-parked car and find grease prints left in the shapes of various body parts smeared all over the windows.
But last night I finally get a taste of the awesome side of Carnival. In the middle of a Sunday night churrasco, (Brazilian BBQ) my friend and I walk outside into the night to make a run to the store and collide with a Bloco (Carnival street party). A big truck with a powerful sound system rolls slowly down the street toward us followed by a mob of ecstatic, bouncing people. People in fantasias (costumes), multi colored wigs, people wearing crowns and giant hats, women shaking their hips in a supernatural way, men wearing sequined bras and colorful skirts, body glitter, sweat everywhere, everyone shouting, jumping, and dancing. With blissful smiles we merge into the crowd, dancing and spinning with our arms in the air and I learn a new way to move. We progress down the street with the mob of rhythm and color and rows of drummers follow us singing loudly. The whole crowd glows under the dimly lit street lights and our feet move to the beat. After an hour we return to the Churrasco, flushed and glowing from the epic party of life— and it’s so good to be alive.
Tomorrow Perola and I are back in the studio, hoping to finish Portal 3 and begin Portal 4.
We just opened a FB page for the 13 Portals
Please LIKE!