Manuel Antonio is lush– a refreshing departure from dusty, hot Jaco. Except, to be honest, to me it looks like an Americanized, tropical, outdoor mall. It’s a very well done tropical mall, I’ll admit– a perfect parcel of packaged paradise. Gorgeous, exotic flowers line the curvy roads and clean, cool, air-conditioned buildings with smooth, glass storefronts house a variety of polished boutiques and restaurants. I miss a sense of authenticity, even a sense of grit here.
Perhaps I am just not refined enough to appreciate this place. It boasts one of the most pristine natural parks in the world, and the beaches are gorgeous. They are hidden away from the main drag and when you reach them at the end of a shady walking trail, it feels like you’ve found a secret beach (except that everyone else found it too). The whole town feels over blanched to me. It’s expensive, with droves of U.S. and Canadian tourists, most of whom are older couples (and clearly more sophisticated than I) on vacation.
I did get excited about El Avión, a restaurant made from an old cargo plane. What an phenomenal idea! And they did it very well, with a bar outfitted inside of the belly of the plane. I had a seat in front of the expansive ocean view, ordered the fish curry…. and soon was reminded of something a gastronomically inclined friend told me once, “You go to the restaurant with a view for the view… if you want good food, go to the restaurant without one… that place that has to try.“
El Avión, Manuel Antonio
How on earth do you screw up fish curry? (By not using any curry)
The view was extraordinary.
Manuel Antonio is beautiful, but it’s still not the Costa Rica that I imagined I would find. I had such soaring hopes before I came. After a couple days here, I feel limp– like a fish on a plate, gutted of hope, immersed in a savorless sauce. This is my friend’s favorite place in all of Costa Rica. Is there nothing better? Is it just a matter of different tastes?
The view at El Avión
I’m starting to wonder if exploring Costa Rica will miss the mark. Perhaps it is not the country to build the community space of my dreams. I remind myself that Manuel Antonio is worlds different from both Jaco and Playa Hermosa and so, a glimmer of hope that there are destinations in this country that will resonate with me, remains. Dominical, a small surfing town is next. It’s come highly recommended by many people I know. Once again we pack our bags. Onward!